It is a mountaineer's dream that has been luring travelers to the other side of the globe for several decades now to climb to the roof of the world- Mount Everest. Scores of people have sacrificed homes, trained for years, and crossed oceans just to set foot in it. But come September 2025, they are about to get costly. One of the biggest increases in Everest climbing permit fees is $15,000, which is a jump of nearly sevenfold, and has just been announced by Nepal. It is the biggest rise in nearly ten years.
This latest change of fee will be a deal breaker for many climbers. However, as expected, there is a twist in the Nepal mountaineering scenario: Between 5,800m and 7,100m, there are 97 lesser-known Himalayan peaks, which are now open to climbing.
Beautiful and remote mountains lying in the godforsaken wild frontiers of Sudurpashchim and Karnali provinces, untouched, unspoiled, and culturally rich. They have no huge lines, as Everest does, of climbers along the trails, or over-commercialized base camps. Rather, they can provide raw wilderness, unearthly beauty, and a real sense of discovery.
This article explains all those in detail, covering changing costs on Everest, free peaks in Nepal, the training and gear you need, the local people and culture, as well as itineraries. Whether you have already conquered a seventeen-thousander or are just starting to contemplate climbing some high mountains, this guide will help you understand how to make climbing in Nepal today.
Why Everest Permit Fees are Increasing?
The increase in the fees at Everest was not viewed in one evening. It is a solution to one of the rising issues of Nepal, overcrowding, and sustainability.
- Traffic jam at the summit: It is common to have hundreds of climbers at a time queuing at the Hillary step and other bottlenecks up the mountain, taking hours in the thin air at 8,000 vertical meters. Images of long queues at the top have appalled the world.
- Safety hazards: Traffic congestion hinders the process of climbing, increases the probability of frostbite, and decreases the amount of oxygen. The increasing risk is by inexperienced climbers.
- Green effect: Everest is claimed to be the greatest garbage heap in the world. The mountain is also littered with old tents, oxygen bottles, food wrappers, and human excreta.
- Helicopter rescue limitations: Helicopter evacuations go to the extent where there is no order and coordination, since there is no organized system at the expense of lives.
Nepal is seeking to increase the fee to:
- Reduce overcrowding by implementing essential rewards for the amateur climber
- Get more funds for safety structures, rescue, and clean-up.
- Make sure that sustainable tourism is popularized such that generations of tomorrow are still able to climb safely.
The permit may be overwhelming at 15,000, but it should be emphasized that Everest is not a joke. It is also a dangerous, sacred undertaking, and it requires dedication.
The Silver Lining: A list of 97 free peaks in Nepal
The Nepalese government is also giving free permission to climb 97 peaks; at the same time, it has increased the fees to climb Everest. Why? The government desires to decentralize tourism, diversify adventurers, and open up remote/poor regions with economic potential.
These peaks:
- Have an Elevation between 5,870m and 7,132m.
- They are concentrated largely in Karnali and Sudurpashchim provinces: counties characterised by unabashed beauty and dilapidated infrastructure.
- They are mostly undeveloped for mass tourism, so you may find yourself as a lone traveller.
It is a golden opportunity for climbers: as Everest grows even more exclusive, the Nepalese are offering the world free access to other Himalayan giants-mysterious until now.
Beyond Everest: Discover Nepal’s Secret Peaks of Sudurpashchim and Karnali
Sudurpashchim, Nepal, Farwestern region, a remote, mysterious, and staggeringly beautiful. The environment is made up of high mountains, alpine meadows, thick forests, and sacred landmarks.
These are not just mountains; these are portals into the pristine wilderness of Nepal, where you can have a true high-altitude trekking experience at a fraction of the price and a fraction of the teeming throngs on Everest. A trip to Sudurpashchim and Karnali encompasses a journey through nature at its most magnificent form, with a chance to experience the local cultures, and in the process, contribute to the development of communities willing to invite people into their backyard.
Here are some of the most spectacular peaks that have just been opened up to climbers:
1. Mount Api (7,132 m) - the Matterhorn of Nepal
The sharp pyramid like peak is located in the district of Farwest Nepal in Darchula, which compares with the Swiss Matterhorn, and Api is a tall mountain forming the western range of the mountain chains in western Nepal. It has a dramatic profile that dominates the skyline, but, unlike Everest, it rarely gets climbed. Api offers:
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Difficult paths with a technical ridge.
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Far-reaching panoramas into India and into Tibet.
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The experience of going out to remote villages in the highlands.
2. The Mount Saipal (7,025 m)
Saipal is a towering mountain with broad ridges and ice walls, and just a little taller than Api. It is not as technical as Everest, but it is challenging enough a training. Some professionals recommend that Nepal soon establish the requirement of climbing a 7,000-meter peak before climbing Everest, and Saipal can be an ideal choice.
3. Bobaye (6,808 m), Nampa (6,755 m)
These two giants are placed on rough terrains, which are ideal for lone adventurers. They are untouched by the majority of the commercial expeditions, hence a sense of pioneering expedition.
4. On Parvat (5,590 m)
Not the highest mountain, but one of the most religious. It is a well-known fact that there is a natural snow formation at Om Parvat in the shape of the sacred symbol of Om. It is a pilgrimage site that combines adventure and is also heavily culturally significant to the Hindu religion.
5. Jethi Bahurani (6,850 m)
Another secret, which has solitude, difficult hikes, and wilderness. This peak is irresistible to those in search of adventure, coupled with off-the-map exploration.
Mythical Himalayas of Karnali Province
Karnali is the biggest yet the least developed province of Nepal. It boasts of breathtaking mountains, but it has poor roads and limited facilities, and therefore, few visitors can be found there.
1. Kanjiroba Massif (6,883 m)
The Kanjiroba range is a giant range of mountain tops, glaciers, and passes. It is far off the beaten track and thus few climbers travel to the region, resulting in it being an actual wilderness adventure. Treks around here usually traverse the Rara Lake, which is the biggest and most beautiful of all the alpine lakes in Nepal.
2. Kubi Gangri (6,859 m)
Kubi Gangri is rugged, wild, and a stark alpine climbing experience at its best. There are no established commercial routes, and this means that a climber must depend on their own skill and determination.
3. Changla (6,721 m)
This is a relatively unknown peak that even most Nepal-based climbers have never heard of. The fact that it is remote ensures that it is ideal for individuals who are in need of solitude and rugged beauty.
Access to Karnali & Sudurpashchim
The travelers can easily access Karnali and Sudurpashchim by land transport as well as by airways. Compared to Everest, where a flight is made to Lukla, where the trek begins, in these peaks, the trek demands a lot of commitment.
Flights: Kathmandu/Dhangadhi/ Nepalgunj/Simikot/ Jumla (depending on peak).
Long bumpy rides: Be prepared to travel long hours on off-road tracks by jeep. Some take 24-4 days by road.
Trekking methods: Once the roads peter out, then 2-4 day treks are needed to reach base camps.
This distance will give you a challenge and a reward: it will mean that these peaks are in their untouched splendor.
Best Seasons To Climb
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Spring (April-May): Good weather, clear sky, pleasant weather.
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Autumn (September-November): Fresh air, reduced rainfall, and spectacular scenery.
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Winter (December-February): Unbearable cold, blocked snow passages can be traveled by only professional teams.
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Monsoon (June-August): It rains and rains and rains, leeches come out, and landslides are common. This is not recommended weather.
Training on Free Peaks: An intelligent way into Everest
According to many pundits, Nepal will soon need climbers who have been able to summit a 7000m peak before tackling Everest. Should this be the case, then mountains such as Api and Saipal will be training fields.
The first ascents of these free peaks create first impressions and gives you:
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Experience in working at high altitude.
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Train in technical skills: ropes, ice axe, and crampons.
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Acclimatization knowledge.
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Courage of the tallest mountain on earth.
Essential Bag Packing List
Climbers typically miss out on little things that support or break expeditions. Here is a list in its entirety:
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Wear: Thermal under layers, fleece, insulated jacket, down suits, waterproof shell, thermal gloves, mittens, balaclava.
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Footwear: Double boots, crampons, gaiters, and socks (wool + synthetic).
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Climbing and Mountaineering equipment: Ice-axe, harness, climbing helmet, climbing ropes, climbing carabiners, ascenders/ rappelling devices.
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Sleeping bag: -30C. Tent: 4-season. Mat: zeros plus. Stove plus fuel.
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Navigation Equipment: Maps, compass, GPS, satellite phone, power banks.
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Medical Kit: AMS medication, rehydration salts, blister care, and water purification tablets.
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Things that always get omitted: Duct tape, spare laces, sunscreen, lip balm, extra gloves.
Cost: Free Doesn't Mean Cheap
Yes, the permits are free. However, expeditions are not cheap enough.
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Daily Guides & porters: 20 to 30 dollars.
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Transport: Domestic flight fares between NZD 150-300, and jeep fares $100 to $200 for each journey.
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Food and accommodation: 20-50 dollars a day.
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Rental/purchase of gear: The cost depends on needs, but can be between $500 to $3,000.
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Total cost of the expedition: 3-6,000 dollars on each peak.
That compares to Everest, where the cost is about $45,000 to $80,000 or above.
Cultural Immersion: It is not just Mountains
Karnali and Sudurpashchim are blessed to have one of the most rewarding things in hospitality and climbing, cultural immersion, and one of the kindest people living there.
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Villages: Thakuri, Chhetri, Tibetan-type inhabitants.
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Food: Dhido (millet/buckwheat porridge), sisnu soup (nettle soup), yak butter tea.
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Festivals: Dashain, local mountain theme worship rituals, and Buddhist rites.
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Homestays: stay with local families in mud-brick houses, eat local cuisine, and listen to legends of the mountains.
Just Safety & Responsible Climbing
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Altitude dangers: AMS (acute mountain sickness), HAPE, HACE. Never underestimate acclimatisation
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Lift: A Helicopter can only be utilized to a certain degree; high altitude insurance is necessary.
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Weather: There are drastic snowstorms and landslides.
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Leave No Trace: Carry your waste, you respect local ways, and you are not too commercial.
Itineraries
The Mount Api Expedition (25 days)
Day 1-3: Kathmandu > Dhangadhi > Darchula> Start of trek.
Days 4-10: Trek through villages and forests.
Day 11-13:Put up base camp.
Day 14-21: Acclimatization rotations through to summit bid.
Day 22-25: Trek back and flight home.
Kanjiroba+ Rara Lake Trek (20days)
Day 1-2- Kathmandu > Nepalgunj > Jumla.
Day 3-8: Hike through Rara Lake.
Day 9-14: Trek to Kanjiroba base camp.
Day 15-17: Summit push
Day 18 20: Fly back down to Jumla.
Final Thoughts
The increased prices of the permits to climb Mount Everest bring about a new era. As much as Everest is being trumpeted to become the new norm, Nepal should remind that there are more than 300 other majestic peaks, less densely populated and arguably more accessible than before.
A golden age has come to climbers: Everest remains for those who can still afford to pay thousands of dollars to rescue them even after they die, but the undiscovered monsters of Karnali and Sudurpashchim beckon, wild and free and waiting.
The new permit policy in Nepal can be considered a well-thought-out move towards a healthier and sustainable mountain tourism sector. The Everest is the jewel of climbing in the Himalayas; however, it is also obvious that the Himalayas have miles to give.
Nepal shouts out to those who dream of having a high-altitude adventure but not with the trekking crowds and the costly Everest. If you are an expert climber or a novice trekker in search of your new adventure, these free permit mountains add another layer to the story of Himalayan exploration: it is more down-to-earth, less costly, and genuinely Nepali.
You may want to climb the Himalayas in a dream, but 2025-2026 could be the right time to make it real in real life. Forget the lines on the Everest side of the summit ridge; in its place, picture yourself standing on Api, Saipal, or Kanjiroba alone, with nothing but solitude, snow, and the panorama of thrilling Himalayan mountains. The mountains are calling. Will you look beyond Everest?
FAQS
1. Why did Nepal raise the fee for climbing Mount Everest?
Most of the reasons that Nepal increased the permit fee include overcrowding, safety concerns, and environmental degradation. Everest has become too congested when peak seasons arrive, and the government would want the climbers to have more responsibilities and serious intentions before trying the mountain. The additional money will also be used to bolster rescue operations, waste management, and sustainable climbing infrastructures.
2. When does the new Everest permit fee come into effect?
The new Everest permit fee of 15000 dollars will be set in full by September 2025. In the case you want to climb earlier than that, the old fee will then be applicable. However, the increased cost has to be paid by all expeditions after the said date.
3. Are these 97 free peaks accessible for free?
The entry climbing permit fee is waived in full. Nevertheless, climbers will still have to take care of logistics such as guides, porters, food, transport, and equipment. Although the cost of the mountain permit is free, there is still a budget to expect during expeditions.
4. Where are such free peaks toils?
A majority of these 97 peaks form the Sudurpashchim (farwestern Nepal) and Karnali Province (northwestern Nepal). These areas are entirely remote and undeveloped regions that barely receive any tourists, which is why Nepal turned them into free tourist zones so that they could bring tourism and financial benefits to the locals.
5. How high are the free peaks?
The free peaks are estimated between 5,870m and 7,132m. Examples include:
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Mount Api at (7,132 m)
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Mt. Saipal (7,025m)
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Kanjiroba (6,883m)
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Bobaye (6,808m)
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Nampa (6,755m)
They are elevated so as to provide true experiences in the Himalayas, but not as expensive and crowded as those in Everest.
6. Do I have to have prior climbing experience for these peaks?
Yes. Although not as radical as Everest, the majority of the free peaks remain technical in nature above 6,000 metres. You need experience with crampons, an ice axe, ropes, and camping in cold, high-altitude conditions. Beginners can make it to trekking peaks (such as Mera Peak or Island Peak) before going to Api or Saipal.
7. Do you need guides and porters?
As far as Nepal is concerned, you would require a registered guide or liaison officer to ascend most of the high-altitude mountains in Nepal. Although it is not mandatory, it is highly advisable in terms of safety and navigation issues, and even for local assistance. Porters also have a heavy load, and that simplifies the expedition.
8. Which is the best season for climbing these free peaks?
Spring (April-May): Stability of weather, situation was warmer, cloudless skies.
Autumn (SeptemberSeptember1675 add months to names, November): Brisk weather, amazing climatic conditions, less populated.
Avoid monsoon (June to August) as this is shooting season and it also causes landslides, winter (Dec to Feb) unless too great a climber to brave extreme cold.
9. So what does a free peak expedition cost when the permits are free?
Expeditions also average 3,000 to 6,000 dollars even without permits. This covers:
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Pseudo-guides, porters, cooks.
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Internal flights and jeep travel.
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The food and room along the trek.
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Loan or buy climbing equipment
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Emergency capital and insurance.
10. What is the transport to and from Sudurpashchim and Karnali provinces?
The ability to access is an activity of the adventure. You will normally require:
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Domestic flight (Kathmandu to Dhangadhi and Nepalgunj to Jumla or Simikot).
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Jeeps traverse bumpy off-road paths.
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Multiday hiking to base camps.
The regions are far less competent than Everest or Annapurna, so they will be more like an expedition.
11. Are these areas safe to tour and to climb?
They are safe, politically by community, and the locals are friendly and accommodating. The principal risks include natural hazards such as, altitude sickness and weather extremes. Given adequate planning and guidelines, safety can be very well managed.
12. Can I train with these free peaks to use on Everest?
Absolutely. Indeed, according to many climbing enthusiasts, there is a good chance that Nepal will soon impose a policy according to which climbers must first climb a 7000 m peak before they can climb Everest. Mountains such as Api (7,132m) and Saipal (7,025m) are good training grounds for Everest - they check endurance, technical competency, and acclimatization.
13. What sort of equipment should I use?
Complete high-altitude mountaineering Equipment, such as:
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Wool or down suit or insulated layers
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Cramponed boots.
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Ice axe, harness, helmet.
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Tent, sleeping bag (-30 °C), gas stove.
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First aid kit & communications (satellite phone is suggested).
14. What cultural experiences would be expected during this period in these regions?
Sudurpashchim and Karnali are culturally rich places. You might have the experience of:
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Native groups along the frontier were Tibetan-inspired.
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Towns and even villages continue with traditional agricultural and pastoralist livelihoods.
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Local food such as dhido (millet porridge), nettle soup, and yak butter tea.
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Spiritual goals such as Om Parvat, which is renowned as an abode of sacred snow.
15. Is the climbing of free peak worth it as compared to Everest?
Yes, but in a different Fashion. Everest is the epitome of recognition in the world and the conquest of the highest mountain. The solitude, affordability, and real adventure are the topics of free peaks. Up on Kanjiroba, or Api, you are not likely to have hundreds of other climbers around you - the silence, the snows, and the raw Himalaya beauty await you.
To most people, that adds a sense of even greater meaning to the experience beyond Everest.