Khopra Ridge Trek

After breakfast, a short drive takes you out of Pokhara and into the foothills, passing through towns and villages with the Annapurna peaks and the iconic fishtail summit of Mt. Machhapuchare rising ahead of you. Once you reach Nayapul, the walking begins. You'll head through Bhirethati village and join a trail that has been walked for centuries, an ancient salt trade route that merchants once used to carry goods between Nepal and Tibet through Ghorepani and deep into Mustang. You'll share the path with other trekkers and probably a mule train or two. The route climbs gently past farm villages with waterfalls spilling down the hillsides, and by the end of the day you'll be sitting down to dinner in a comfortable lodge in Tikhedhunga. A satisfying first day on foot.

Today has a bit of a reputation, and it's well earned. The morning starts with a solid two-hour climb up stone steps to Ulleri village. It's steep, there's no getting around that, but the views of Annapurna South and Machhapuchare that open up along the way make every step worth it. Once you reach Ulleri, the trail eases into something much more pleasant, winding through cool forest filled with oaks, pines and rhododendrons. There's a lovely rhythm to walking through these trees, especially when the light filters through in the morning. You'll gain more height as the afternoon goes on, eventually arriving at Ghorepani, a village that sits right on that same ancient salt trade route and looks out toward the mighty Dhaulagiri range, the world's seventh highest mountain. This is also the village that serves as the gateway to Poon Hill, which tomorrow morning will make a lot of sense.

Wake up early. It's worth it, we promise. The short hike up to Poon Hill before dawn is one of those experiences that's difficult to describe without sounding like you're exaggerating. As the sky lightens, the peaks begin to appear one by one: Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, the entire Annapurna range, Machhapuchare, and all the way east toward Ganesh Himal. The sunrise colours change everything. Take your time up here. After heading back down to Ghorepani for a proper breakfast, the day continues downhill through Chitre village and then onto a quieter path that most trekkers don't take, leading you to the small farm village of Sauta. It's a peaceful spot, tucked into a forest of rhododendrons, magnolias, and oaks, with Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South still keeping you company on the horizon.

Today's walking takes you off the well-worn trails and into a quieter side of the Annapurna region. From Sauta, the route moves through farm fields and small scattered settlements, passing in and out of rhododendron and bamboo forest as the altitude gradually climbs. By the end of the afternoon, you'll arrive at Chistibung, a small, no-frills place with a few teahouse huts. It's simple, but there's something genuinely refreshing about being this far from the crowds. A good night's rest here before the day that makes this whole trek special.

This is the day the whole trip has been building toward. The climb to Khopra Ridge starts in the morning and it's steep, but as the trees thin out and you move above the treeline into alpine shrubs and open sky, the surroundings become something else entirely. Keep your eyes open along the way. Himalayan Thar, sure-footed wild goats, are sometimes spotted on the slopes, and if you're lucky you might catch a glimpse of the Danphe, Nepal's national bird, flashing its iridescent colours across the hillside. When you finally reach Khopra Ridge, the payoff is enormous. Dhaulagiri's full range spreads out in front of you, with Vara-Shikhar (also known as Annapurna Fang) and Annapurna South completing a panorama that feels almost too grand to take in all at once. This is your home for tonight.

A rest day at Khopra Ridge, and you've earned it. Sit with your tea, watch the mountains, and let the altitude and the views do their thing. If you've still got energy in your legs, the hike to Khair Lake at 4,247 m is absolutely worthwhile. This high-altitude glacial lake holds deep religious significance for the communities living in the valleys below. Every August, pilgrims make their way up here for a festival dedicated to Lord Shiva, bathing in the icy water as an act of devotion. Even outside of festival season, there's something quietly powerful about the place.

After a couple of nights on the ridge, it's time to head east. The morning's walking is a long, satisfying descent through grazing pastures and into the rhododendron forest, the kind of walking where your legs feel good and the scenery keeps changing around you. Dobato is a summer grazing ground where local herders bring their cattle when the weather warms. It's a simple, open place with big views of Annapurna South and Machhapuchare, and a very welcome overnight stop after the day's descent.

From Dobato, the trail drops down to Tadapani, a small village perched with lovely views of the Annapurna peaks, before continuing downhill toward the large Gurung village of Ghandruk. Ghandruk is worth exploring. It's one of the most well-known villages in the Annapurna region, with stone-paved lanes, traditional Gurung architecture and a history closely tied to the Gorkha soldiers who have served in the British and Indian Armies for generations. Spend the afternoon wandering through the village, talking to locals if you get the chance. There are worse ways to spend an evening.

The last morning of walking eases you out gently. A gradual descent for about an hour brings you down to the Modi River and then through terraced rice fields and farm villages to the road. From there, it's a drive back into Pokhara and to your hotel by the lake. You've walked from Nayapul to Khopra Ridge and back out through Ghandruk. Not a bad week's work.