Most people entering the Everest area take the same route. They go to Lukla, go through Namche Bazaar, go to Base Camp, and then head back the same way they came. It’s a wonderful experience, and nobody’s arguing otherwise. However, if you’re one of those people who has ever looked at a map of the Khumbu region and wondered what’s out there besides the one route everybody takes, the Everest Three High Passes Trek is the answer to your question.
This route traverses three high passes, the Kongma La at 5,535m, the Cho La at 5,420m, and the Renjo La at 5,360m. Additionally, it also covers the Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar. This route does not go up and then head back down the same route. Instead, it covers the entire Khumbu region. This route will take you through the valley and other areas that the Base Camp route does not cover. The Gokyo Lakes, the glacier crossing on the Cho La, and the view of the five 8,000m peaks from the Renjo La are just a few things that the Base Camp route does not offer.
Quick Facts
- Location: Everest Region, northeastern Nepal
- Duration: 18-21 days (depending on route and acclimatization days)
- Difficulty Level: Moderate to very challenging (suitable for experienced trekkers)
- Maximum Elevation: 5,535 meters (Kongma La Pass, the highest of the three passes)
- Best Seasons: Spring (March to May), Autumn (September to November)
- Permits Required: Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit
What Exactly Is the Everest Three High Passes Trek?
If you’ve already hiked the Everest Base Camp trek or have spent any time reading about it, then you know why people just keep coming back to this area. That trek has earned its reputation. The Three High Passes Trek isn’t trying to compete with it or replace it. Instead, it’s more similar to when someone has enjoyed the Base Camp trek and starts to say to themselves, “Well, okay, but what else is out there?”
The answer to that, obviously, is a lot. Instead of hiking a valley back and forth the same way over and over, the Three High Passes actually loop the entire Khumbu region. You will go over three different passes, and each one will take you to a completely different environment than the last. Cho La will take you across a real glacier, the kind where crampons aren’t optional on a bad day. And then there’s Renjo La, which presents you with a view that includes Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu all at once. Honestly, most people are just stopped dead in their tracks the first time they see this view. The Gokyo Lakes, which you completely bypass on the standard Everest Base Camp trek, are sitting right in the middle of all this, looking like something out of a fantasy world at 4,700 meters.
Of course, nothing worth having ever comes easily, and so let’s be upfront here. This is a long trek. It takes between 18 and 21 days to complete, and you’re spending several nights above 5,000 meters. Anyone who has already spent time at high altitude on treks such as the Annapurna Circuit or even just on a long Alpine route will have a sense of just what they’re getting into here. But if you’re looking at this as a first-time high-altitude trekker, then yes, starting out on Everest Base Camp first is probably a smarter move. This is a trek for people with experience. It is not a place for you to find out for the first time how your body handles high altitude.
The Three Passes That Define This Trek
Kongma La Pass (5,535 m)
Kongma La is the highest of these three, and it will make sure you know that. The climb takes longer than you expect it to, winding its way upwards through loose, rocky moraine where the trail sometimes disappears into the landscape and you’re just picking your way upwards. The altitude will hit you hard here even if you’ve taken all the acclimatization seriously. Your legs will feel heavier than they have a right to feel, and your breathing will never feel quite sufficient. But then you’re at the top, and everything changes. Makalu and Baruntse loom to the east, Island Peak is below you, and the Khumbu Glacier stretches out before you in a way that will stop you dead in your tracks and make you simply stare for a while. The descent into Chhukung is steep and requires your full attention. It’s a hard day by anyone’s standards, but nobody ever descends from Kongma La wishing they hadn’t gone.
Cho La Pass (5,420m)
Cho La has a reputation, and it earns it. Most of the way is perfectly manageable, but then you hit the glacier section towards the top, and everything changes. The terrain can be steep and slippery depending on the state of the ice, and crampons go from being something you lugged along in case you need them to something you are actually grateful for. It is the sort of terrain where you are aware of every step and stop thinking about anything else. Having a guide here is as much about finding the route as it is about having someone who can read the ice and tell you whether or not it is safe on a particular morning. Finally descending into the Gokyo Valley on the other side is a feeling you do not often get on a normal day out. It is not just tiredness; it is the pleasure of having crossed something that actually demanded something of you.
Renjo La Pass (5,360m)
Renjo La is what everyone talks about when they get home. The climb up from Gokyo is steady and well-marked, and compared to what has come before, it is almost gentle. But none of that is what makes Renjo La memorable. What makes Renjo La stop every trekker at the top is what is to be seen. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and the entire expanse of the Gokyo Valley below with the lakes shining in the sunlight, all of it right there in front of you. Many trekkers claim this to be the very best view in all of the Khumbu, and quite honestly, when you are there, it is very difficult to argue with such a claim. After all of what has come before, Renjo La is what the mountain has to give back. The descent to Lungden is easy and unhurried, and most trekkers spend it in contemplative silence, still trying to process what has just been seen.
Day-to-Day Itinerary (Sample)
- Day 1: Fly to Lukla (2810m) and Trek to Phakding (2610m)
- Day 2: Trek to Namche Bazzar (3445m)
- Day 3: Acclimatization day at Namche
- Day 4: Trek to Tengboche (3860m)
- Day 5: Trek to Dingboche (4390m)
- Day 6: Trek to Chukkung (4730m)
- Day 7: Chukkung to Lobuche (4925m) via Kongma La pass (5535m)
- Day 8: Trek to Gorakshep (5180m) and Everest Base Camp (5360m)
- Day 9: Hike to Kalapatthar (5545m) and Trek to Dzongla (4830m)
- Day 10: Cross Cho La pass (5420m) and Trek to Gokyo (4700 m)
- Day 11: Hike to Gokyo Ri and explore for a day
- Day 12: Trek to Lungden (4370m) via Renjo La Pass (5360m)
- Day 13: Trek down to Namche (3445m)
- Day 14: Trek down to Lukla
- Day 15: Fly back to Kathmandu
What This Trek Actually Shows You Along the Way
Some treks have one big moment, and everything else is just the walk to get there. This one has a habit of surprising you. The high points of this trek are not all in one place; they are dispersed throughout three weeks of walking, and they will catch you at moments when you least expect them. And by the time you have finished, you will have seen parts of the Khumbu that few tourists ever even see. Here is what stays with you when you finally return home.
- Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar: There is something about being on Kala Patthar in the early morning with Everest sitting right in front of you that no amount of pictures can prepare you for. Base Camp itself is not as bustling and not as touristy as you might think, it is more of a place that makes you feel small in the best way possible.
- Gokyo Lakes: Nobody ever really talks about the Gokyo Lakes enough, which is kind of weird because they’re really pretty. Six lakes above 4,700 meters with water that is almost impossibly blue-green in the middle of all that rock and snow.
- Ngozumpa Glacier: This is the longest glacier in the Himalayas. Walking along beside it for any length of time can be kind of mind-boggling in terms of scale. It is enormous and messy and old and doesn’t really resemble what you might think of when someone says the word glacier.
- Sherpa Villages and Culture: Some of the villages along the way here get a fraction of the traffic that the Base Camp trail gets, and it shows. It’s more relaxed, slower paced. Spending one night in a place like Thame or Khumjung really gives you a sense of mountain life that feels like the real deal instead of the pseudo-tourist version.
Trek Insights
When Should You Actually Go?
The two seasons that will be suitable for the trek will be spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November), and both seasons will be good in their own way. Spring will be good because of the weather and the rhododendrons in full bloom lower down the trail. It will be really beautiful in the early days of the trek. Autumn will be good because it is cleaner and crisper. The skies will be clearer after the monsoon rain has washed everything out, and the visibility of the passes will be absolutely spectacular on a good day. October and November will be the preferred choice of any experienced trekker because the weather will be good, the skies will be clear, and the mountains will be visible more often than at any other time of the year.
The drawback of the popular seasons is the crowds, especially in the areas that coincide with the regular base camp route. Autumn is especially popular, and the tea houses in the Namche and Tengboche areas fill up quickly. The parts of the Three High Passes route that diverge from the main route are quite quiet, however, which is one of the underappreciated advantages of this route. If you want quiet and don’t mind somewhat variable weather, the shoulder weeks at the beginning or end of the popular seasons in late March or late November can be good, and the trails will be much quieter.
Tea Houses, Dal Bhat and Everything in Between
Accommodation is tea houses all the way, and if you have not done a tea house trek before, it is worth knowing about before you go. At the lower altitudes around Namche and Phakding, the tea houses are very comfortable, with some even offering heated dining areas, good wifi, and menus that go beyond the basics. At the higher altitudes, things get simpler, and this is just the nature of being high up in a remote mountainous area. Rooms get smaller, blankets get thicker, and hot showers become a luxury item. However, this is something that most people get used to very quickly, and there is something oddly pleasant about the simplicity of it all.
The food follows the same trend. Dal bhat is the fuel that keeps the trekkers going on this route and for good reason. It is hot, it is delicious, and it has plenty of carbs. Moreover, they will keep your plates filled without you even asking. You can get your fill of pasta, fried rice, soups, noodles, and even the occasional apple pie as you move from village to village. The higher you go, the fewer the options become simply because everything has been carried in on somebody’s back. Food is more important than one realizes at high altitudes, and it is worth ordering the good stuff even on the days when your appetite is not quite what you would like it to be.
What This Trek Is Going to Cost You
Before you even begin your journey, there are a few things to take care of, and it is better to know about them as soon as possible rather than at the last minute. The permits required for this trek include the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit, which can be obtained in Kathmandu or Monjo. If you are planning to take a flight to Lukla, then you should also consider the cost of your flight from Kathmandu, as it is quite expensive. The process is quite simple, but it is worth noting that it is not something to be taken lightly, as there are checks all along the route.
The cost of the trek, overall, will depend quite a bit on how you choose to do it. If you are a budget-independent trekker and have to arrange all the tea houses and logistics yourself, the cost to get through the whole circuit will be around 1,500 to 2,000 USD. If you opt to have a fully guided trek with a reputable agency, including a licensed guide and porter, this will be closer to 3,000 to 4,500 USD or more, depending on the agency and the type of service. While this is obviously more expensive, it does remove a great deal of the guesswork from the equation, especially over the pass sections.
Getting Yourself Ready Before You Even Land in Kathmandu
A lot of work goes into planning the logistics of this trek, and then there are people who take two weeks to pack their gear. The preparation side of things needs more coverage, as this trek genuinely rewards those who turn up prepared and makes it more difficult for those who don’t. It is not just about packing the right gear, such as the right jacket and right boots. It is about showing up to those three passes with some level of confidence in your gear, your physical condition, and your mindset. Getting all three right before you leave home makes this trek an entirely different experience for you.
What you actually need to get right before you leave home:
- Clothing and Layers: A decent down jacket, a decent waterproof outer shell, and a decent layering system to wear underneath it all. The temperature at the passes and at high altitude is quite chilly, and it drops hard, especially early morning. This is not the place to skimp on layers.
- Footwear: Broken in waterproof trekking boots that you have already spent real time walking in. Blisters on day three of a three-week trek are miserable and completely avoidable.
- Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least minus 10 degrees Celsius. While tea house blankets exist, they are not something you want to rely on above 4,500 meters.
- Crampons or Microspikes: Non-negotiable for Cho La. Depending on conditions, they can also come in handy on Kongma La. Pack them and know how to use them before you arrive.
- Trekking Poles: The descents from all three passes are steep and hard on the knees. Poles make a real difference over the course of the whole route.
- Pack Size and Weight: A 50-60 liter pack is plenty. Most people overpack and regret it within the first few days. If you’re hiring a porter, which is well worth doing, then your daypack should be light, and the rest can be carried by them.
What This Route Gives You That Base Camp Simply Cannot
The honest answer to the question of why someone would choose to take this trek over the more popular Base Camp trek is because it offers the whole picture, not just a part of it. While the Base Camp trek follows a single trail through a single valley, it does so in a wonderful fashion. This trek offers the whole Khumbu region, entering other valley systems and other landscapes that the more popular trek never encounters. You see more, you understand more, and you feel a sense of the place in a complete fashion.
Another thing worth mentioning is the crowd factor, which is more significant than one might think. The parts of this route that coincide with the Base Camp route can be quite crowded in the main season, but once you leave the crowds behind and head off towards Gokyo or up towards the less crowded passes, the crowds really disperse. There is a big difference between walking in the mountain scenery with one hundred other trekkers and walking in the mountain scenery on your own. The Three High Passes Trek offers both of these experiences. If you have already done the Base Camp Trek and are wondering what the next step might be, then this route offers an easy answer. If you are faced with the decision of which route to take for the first time and you have the fitness and experience to tackle it, then this route offers more of everything, which makes the Himalayas worth walking in the first place.
FAQs
How difficult is the Everest Three High Passes trek compared to the Everest Base Camp trek?
Considerably harder, and it is worth being straight about that. The Base Camp trek follows a relatively straightforward trail all the way through. This route adds three high-altitude pass crossings, stretches to three weeks, and takes you through terrain that gets genuinely technical in places. People who have done both almost always say the Three High Passes Trek is in a completely different category physically and mentally.
Do I need prior high-altitude trekking experience to complete the Everest Three High Passes Trek?
It is not a strict requirement, but it makes a real difference. Going above 5,000 meters for the first time on a route that crosses three passes at that height is a big ask for your body. Having done at least one previous high altitude trek gives you a much better sense of your own limits before committing to something this demanding. It is not about being elite; it is about knowing yourself well enough to make good decisions when things get hard up there.
Which of the three passes is the most challenging?
Most people point to Kongma La. It is the highest at 5,535 meters, and the long relentless ascent on loose rocky terrain at that altitude breaks people down more than anything else on the route. Cho La gets attention for its glacier crossing, which is genuinely technical when icy. Renjo La is the most manageable of the three, which feels like a well-timed reward after everything that came before it.
What kind of physical fitness and preparation is required?
You do not need to be an athlete, but you do need to be genuinely fit and honest with yourself about it. Three weeks of big elevation days at high altitude demand real cardiovascular fitness. Getting comfortable with long uphill days before you leave, through hiking, running, or cycling, will serve you better than almost anything else. People who arrive fit and acclimatize patiently tend to have a very different experience than those who hope the excitement carries them through.
Is it possible to complete the trek without a guide or porter?
Technically yes, but worth thinking carefully about. Navigation off the main trail is not always straightforward, and in bad weather it gets genuinely difficult. A guide brings route knowledge and safety awareness that is hard to replace. A porter means you are not hauling a heavy pack over three high passes for three weeks, which is a bigger deal than it sounds. Going without either is possible, but most independent trekkers say hiring at least one was a decision they were glad they made.
